How to get Jeremy Fox’s perfect cheese sandwich
Just because his book On Vegetables is meat-free it doesn’t mean it can’t be indulgent...
His cookbook is meat-free, but it's not an overly austere selection of recipes. “While I greatly enjoy the healthful, vegetal pleasures of, say, Purple Haze carrots with yogurt and sumac,” he writes in the book’s opening chapter, “I am also a man who will shake with excitement over thick-cut homemade bread slathered with butter, swiped with bechamel and mayo, stuffed full of three different cheeses, and then pressed together until the cheese melts and oozes out of the crispy, fatty, golden-brown bread. So yeah — sometimes you just need one of these.”
That recipe, in a more cogent form is, in fact, the first one you come across in On Vegetables, and now it’s a regular feature at Esters Wine Shop in Santa Monica, a few block’s south of Fox’s own establishment, Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen.
How did it end up there? Well, Esters (named after the molecules that help form a wine’s flavor) was set up by Rustic Canyon’s restaurateur Josh Loeb and wine director Kathryn Weil Coker. Fox oversees the menu, has hosted pop-ups at the wine bar, and also gifted this beautiful slice of cheesy heaven to the wine bar in perpetuity. Something to bear in mind, if you're ever hungry in southern California. Can’t make it to Esters? Then order the book here, and make your own.