Bertrand Grébaut - An Appreciation

We are saddened to report that Bertrand Grébaut, the influential chef of Septime in Paris, died on Thursday after a long illness fought with great courage. Bertrand was just 44 and with his passing, the food world has lost one of its most influential and most-loved chefs.
 
On its opening in 2011 Septime bridged the gap between formal haute cuisine and traditional bistro fare – common now, but rare 15 years ago. As fellow chef and Phaidon author JP McMahon wrote on his Substack:

“Septime changed the language of contemporary French fine dining. It opened in the 11th arrondissement and became one of those rare restaurants that seemed to alter the atmosphere around it, and even those restaurants far away. It was a serious place without being solemn. It was beautiful without being overtly precious about its presentation.”

(Main image above: Bertrand Grébaut at daily team briefing Photograph: Alexandre Guirkinger)

Septime - photography Alexandre Guirkinger

Among the many tributes to Bertrand across the food world Dominique Crenn, wrote: “You understood that hospitality is not a service. It is an embrace. A family gathered around a table. An act of love. An act of humanity. Your legacy will live in the countless people you inspired to cook with intention, to lead with kindness. Thank you for reminding us that beauty is found in sincerity.”

Ana Roš said “Bertrand’s cuisine was for angels,” according to Andreja Lajh, founder of Haut de Gamme.
 

Photography Alexandre Guirkinger

Grébaut’s culinary path to excellence was unusual. He first studied literature, and then graphic design, during which he moonlighted as a graffiti artist.
 
Realising, quite literally, that his tastes lay elsewhere, he applied to enter the preparatory program at Ferrandi culinary school where he graduated top of his class.

“It was a time when cooking wasn’t at all in vogue. Not many people were rushing to get into it,” he reflected with characteristic understatement.

Aubergine confit - photography Alexandre Guirkinger

After his first experiences at Marius et Janette and La Table de Joël Robuchon, the program culminated in an internship at L’Arpège, under Alain Passard, who eventually hired him as a chef de partie.

It was here that he started to construct his own vision of cooking. “A sensible and natural perspective, rather than an ultra-technical and systematic one,” he recalled.
 
Three years later, in 2009 as head chef at L’Agapé, he became the youngest chef in France to be rewarded a Michelin star at the age of just 27.
 
In the wake of the achievement Bertrand took a sabbatical year to travel through Asia in search of renewed inspiration. Upon his return he opened Septime with business partner, and childhood friend, Théo Pourriat. The restaurant was housed in two former typewriter and electricity shops, combined into one space that reflected his innate sense of style. 

Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat before service - photography Alexandre Guirkinger

 
“The original idea was to try to unite everything we loved about bistros, three star restaurants, and all our discoveries in France and elsewhere into one unique place,” he said.
 
He never lost his love of graphic design, which was reflected in the typography of the menus for Septime, and also the successful restaurants that followed: Clamato, La Cave, Tapisserie and D’une île.
 
The point of difference didn’t stop there either. Bertrand and his wife were at the forefront of championing work-life balance in a restaurant industry hardly known for it. 

Pairings - photography Alexandre Guirkinger

In his appreciation JP McMahon wrote: “He had the air of someone who believed that a restaurant could still be a place of experiment, generosity and collective life. Anyone can make food heavy and serious. Anyone can turn a restaurant into theatre or self-mythologise about his or her own importance. It is much harder to create a place where the food feels free, where the room breathes, and where the staff and guests are part of the meaning of the place.”

Hélène Gallois Montbrun, Phaidon’s Managing & Commissioning Editor, in Paris, worked closely with Bertrand Grébaut on our book, Septime: La Cave, Clamato, D'une île. She said: 

"Working with Bertrand and Théo on this book, in the middle of the lockdown, will always remain one of the most meaningful experiences of my life as an editor. Bertrand was a meticulous and demanding author, but he was also unfailingly engaged, inspired, and enthusiastic. He was deeply involved in every aspect of the book from its text to its photography and design."

Onion tart - photography Alexandre Guirkinger