Ribeye of beef dry aged for twenty weeks, sour onions, turnip thinnings and green juice

A recipe by Magnus Nilsson, taken from Faviken
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Here, the sour onion preparation (see page 74) is served with a mouth-watering piece of perfect beef, first fried in the pan and then rested on the grill for a delicate smoke flavour. It is served with raw peppery leaves from turnip thinnings that would otherwise have gone into the compost, and a very fresh green herbal juice, which is prepared just before serving so that it really tastes like the air smells when you work in the garden and harvest green vegetables.

Serves 6

Ingredients

turnip thinnings, about 3 small leaves per person

plenty of lovage leaves

1 x 1.5kg thick slice of beef ribeye

soft butter, for cooking

mild garlic butter

500ml crystal-clear whey, obtained from yogurt or buttermilk

3 onions, dry and preferably never stored in a fridge, since this spoils their flavour

1–2 spoons thick cream

birch leaf oil

coarse salt

Method

Wash the turnip thinnings and lovage leaves, rinse them well and leave at room temperature.

Take the meat out of the fridge and put it on a tray, without any cover or clingfilm (plastic wrap), at room temperature at least two hours before you intend to start working with it so that it has a dry surface and is not too cold when cooked. A little while before cooking, season it with plenty of salt. As it is a very big piece you will need more salt than you think. You will find that if you let the salt dissolve a little the meat will brown more easily and uniformly.

Brown a large spoon of butter in a cast-iron frying pan or skillet and fry the meat until the first side is perfectly caramelized. The meat and the pan need to be kept moving at all times so that no part of the pan warms up too much, causing the fat in that part to burn, and so that no part gets too cold and stops the meat browning. When the first side is perfect repeat the process with the second side, adding a little more butter as you turn it.

Let the meat rest somewhere warm but not hot, brush with a light garlic butter (we leave this at the side of the fireplace) and leave it to stand. While the meat is resting, pour the butter and fat that have leaked out from the meat through a fine-mesh sieve into a container and clean the pan. When the meat is no longer hot to the touch, fry it once more in the clean pan, brush it with garlic butter and leave it to rest again. Repeat this process until the meat is cooked to the degree you like.

While the meat is cooking, start to reduce the whey in a pan over medium heat. Slice the onions paper thin and add them with a little piece of butter to the whey when it has reduced to about a tenth of its original volume. Cook the onions for a couple of minutes, stirring them constantly with your latex gloved hand or very carefully with a rubber spatula so that you don’t break the structure of the onions. Take care that they do not brown, because if they do all elegance will be lost. When the onions are cooked, finish them with a good spoon of cream and serve immediately. Do not add salt to this condiment – it will not do it any good.

Seconds before serving, push equal parts of turnip leaves and lovage through a juicer straight into a bowl with some birch leaf oil already in it. The oil is there for two reasons: firstly because it is delicious, and secondly because it forms a film on top of the delicate juice, which without it would oxidize in seconds.

To finish the meat, reheat the frying pan or skillet and put back the fat strained from the pan earlier. Fry the piece of meat on both sides once more and add some more butter. Let the new butter brown, then immediately lift the meat out and place on a preheated chopping board. Cut it into 6 strips straight away using a very sharp knife and serve with the onions, green juice and raw turnip thinnings.

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Faviken

Fäviken is an exclusive insight into one of the world's most interesting restaurants: Fäviken Magasinet in Sweden. Narrative texts, photographs and recipes explain head chef Magnus Nilsson's remarkable approach to sourcing and cooking with ingredients that are farmed and hunted in the immediate vicinity of the restaurant, and how he creates a seasonal cycle of menus based on them.

Even though not everyone can visit Fäviken, Nilsson’s approach to working with ingredients in the most natural, intuitive way possible, and making the most of each season, will inspire all cooks and food-lovers to think differently about the ingredients that are available to them.

Many of the basic recipes for yoghurt, bread, porridge, vinegar, pickles and preserves are simple and straightforward enough for anyone to attempt at home, and the advice on natural preservation methods can be followed by anyone.

The text in Fäviken will provide inspiration for chefs and food-lovers all over the world and are fully accessible to the general reader.