On the morning after a rather splendid night before, let's leave it to Ferran Adrià to put René Redzepi and Noma's unprecedented three times win at last night's 50 Best Restaurant Awards into context - one genius, on another.
"The spirit of a cuisine doesn't emerge out of nowhere. It is formed and defined with time and, as in the case of my restaurant elBulli, by the people who pass through its kitchen. There is no doubt that René Redzepi, who worked at elBulli during the 1999 season, contributed to its legacy. He then took that spirit, combined it with his approach to life, personalised it and created his own cuisine.
"What makes up that spirit? Ethics, passion, creativity, freedom, the willingness to take risks. With his restaurant Noma, René, has done something historic. He has placed Copenhagen and the Nordic countries on the global map of gastronomy. Today he is at the apex of the culinary world.
"We often talk about the best chef in the world when in reality, cuisine - like other activities - cannot be measured, quantified or calculated. There is no such thing as the best. But it is possible to point out something much more important: the chef who is the most influential, the one who establishes the way forward. René occupies this position. He is influencing chefs around the world not just with his cooking but with his philosophy. That is why I am convinced that his influence will endure." Well done René - from all of us at Phaidon.